First Day With Your Bunny
You just purchased your new Ozimals bunny. Now what?
Here’s a simple walk through using some basic settings that you can change to fit your needs.
We’ll use 4 meters for roaming range, standard breeding food(Level 2) and water(Level 2) and owner access.
- Activate the group that you will want your bunnies to be in. This way, when you rez your items they will autmatically be in the right group.
- Now rezz your nest. It will sit there until you tell it to birth the bunny, so no worries.
- Now is a good time to rez 1 food and 1 water (Be sure you know which level food and water you are rezzing. In our example, we are using Level 2 food.) Rez the food and water close to your nest to be sure it is within reach of your baby bunny when he is born.
- Touch the bunny nest and start the birthing. It will only take about 30 seconds to complete.(If you bought your starter bunny from the Ozimals store. If you purchased a nest from a breeder or Ozimals merchant, your nest will take an hour (60 minutes) to birth.) DO NOT move the nest while it is visible. It will disappear when it’s done and your bunny will be sitting there awaiting your command. (It is not a good idea to have a huge number of bunnies in the vicinity (within let’s say within 10 meters to be safe. If you have more than 10 bunnies around plus foods and other scripted items, the nest might get confused when trying to talk to it’s baby bunny).
- As soon as your bunny has rezzed and the nest has disappeared, click on the bunny. A blue menu will pull up. It’s a good idea to click on the movement button and then on movement off button to keep your bunny from starting to hop around and making it very hard to click on it until you’re done.
- Now that you have stopped your bunny’s movement, you can take your time to do the rest.
- Click on CONFIG button and set the bunny range. (This is how far he can go away from his home spot, which currently is where he was birthed. You can change his home anytime via menu, or by picking him up and putting him down in a new place.) Click the set range button and in local chat type the number of meters you want him to roam, in our case, we’ll simply type 4 and enter.
- If you’ve thought up a name for your bunny you can click on the bunny again to get up the blue menu, and again click the config button. Now click set name button and in local chat type a name for your bunny. Keep the name reasonably short or you will get a notice that it’s too long and you’ll have to repeat this step. In our case, we’ll type in “Dust Bunny” and enter.
- Now we want our bunny only to show his stats to us and noone else, so we don’t have to set interaction. It defaults to owner. If we wanted our bunny to show stats to others, we would click on the interaction button and set the bunny to either other group members or anyone. In those cases, the bunny would give them an option to see his stats.
- To set a bunny’s nutrition (food) level, click the Nutrition button and then the level of food you want it to eat. In our case, we are using Level 2 food, and the bunnies default to Level 2, so we don’t need to change anything. If your bunny is a pet and you are using pet food (Level 1) you will want to change this setting to Level 1.
- All your settings have been configured, but its a good idea to check them to be sure SL didn’t choke on 1 of them. So click your way to the Main Menu and find the Show Config button. Click this and scroll through the settings in the blue menu itself.(It will also say the info in your local chat). It will show you how the bunny is set. Do not rely on the hovertext because that takes a while to update. Once you are sure that your settings are set the way you want them. Click Main Menu, then click Movement, then Movement on.
- Your bunny will now be hopping around looking for friends and adventure.
Something is wrong and now my bunny is hibernating….now what?
First, hibernating bunnies are not dead, they are in a state of ….well…hibernation. They can be revived, but first we need to determine what made them hibernate in the first place. Remember, don’t rely on hovertext to see what settings your bunnies are on. Hovertext doesn’t update immediately and only shows the last food the bunny ate. Check Show Config in your bunny’s menu.
Here are some of the first things to check:
•Check to be sure your bunny has food AND water:
(If you share food and water with another person, be sure the food and water is set to GROUP on its menu. If you click the food or water, you get a blue menu for choosing this. If you share wood and water, you will also need to be sure the food and the bunnies are in the same group. Edit the bunny and look at the group setting. )
•Check to be sure the bunny can reach the food and water:
Click on the hibernating bunny and then click on Movement and Go Home. (This will send your bunny to it’s home position).
Now Click on the hibernating bunny and then click on Show Config.
Look over the configuration settings of the bunny. (This is a scrollable list, so scroll down to see it all. ) Or look in local chat for the settings.
Check to see if your bunny is farther away from the food and water than the range set in Show Config. (If this is the problem, pick up the bunny and put it down near the food. It should start eating soon.
•Check to be sure the bunny is set to eat the same type of food that you have down for it to eat.
Bunnies default to Level 2 food. If you have Level 1 or Level 3 food down, the bunnies will not eat it. (They are very picky!). To change their food settings, click on the bunny, then click on Nutrition in the menu. Change the food on the bunny to match the food you are providing. If this was the problem, It should start eating soon.
•Don’t put down more than one kind of food for the same level. Bunnies get confused when given choices.
•None of those things worked? Try one of the following:
?Pick up your bunny and put it back down.
?Pick up the food and put it back down.
?Change your bunny range settings to 1 meter more than you currently have it.
Bunnies will eat but not come out of hibernation right away. It will take 24 hours for a hibernating bunny that is on its way to recovering to become active again. You can revive a hibernating bunny by purchasing a Rise & Shine Sun from the Ozimals store if you don’t want to wait 24 hours.
Every time a bunny hibernates, it loses 1 breeding generation.
Matriarchs/Patriarchs, Elders or Sages will die prematurely if they go into hibernation 5 times.
Keep an eye on new bunnies to be sure they are eating and address it right away to avoid hibernating bunnies.
Don’t rely on just the hovertext to view your settings like food. First, the hovertext will only show the last food eaten, not necessarily the food you have them set to or are providing. Also, there is a lapse time before hovertext updates. The most reliable method of checking a bunny’s settings is in Show Config in the bunny menu.
Bunny Range Settings
A bunny’s range is the distance it can move and also affects its reach for breeding and eating.
This is in any direction; north, south, east, west, up, down or any variation in between.
Be sure that you have placed food within the bunny’s range so that it can reach it when it gets hungry.
Remember, a bunny can move to the edge of its range, and then reach even farther. Each new position creates a new reach distance. In the above diagram, the bunny can hop 10 meters from its home position in any direction. If it hops 10 meters from home, its can now reach out 10 more meters from there. Its important to keep non-breeders a safe distance from a potential mate.
If you don’t set bunnies far enough apart, they will possibly mate with another if the other bunny is within their reach. A buffer zone between bunnies must be at least two times their range setting. For a 10 meter range, bunnies must be more than 20 meters apart. Below is an example of having bunnies too close together.
If either bunny hops to the edge of their field of movement (range), their reach could overlap the other bunny’s reach and allow them to interact. If both hop towards one another, interaction is probable.
Bunny Breeding and Genetics
The genetics system isn’t just one trait per bunny. There are four separate genetic traits for each bunny. Eyes, ears, fur, and shade. So each bunny has:
•Fur – Primary – Secondary (And don’t think a Mini-Rex has to have a Mini-Rex for its secondary fur. It could be a Harlequin Orange/Blue hiding in there for instance).
•Eyes – Primary – Secondary
•Shade – Primary – Secondary (Can be classic, dusky, aphotic, silky or radiant)
•Ears – Primary – Secondary (Can be upright, half-a-lop and lop)
We’ll try to explain some of this through an example of just one trait…..we’ll pick eyes.
Bunny A (mom) has green eyes. Bunny B (dad) has brown eyes.
To make this a little clearer about the traits, we’ll call them Primary(Dominant) and Secondary(Recessive). Since these are starter bunnies, we’ll say that the traits showing are the primary traits and that their secondary traits are hidden. But in Bunny A and Bunny B, what are their secondary traits? You won’t know until you start breeding them with each other.
Now Bunnies A and B have a baby and that baby has brown eyes. It is a good chance that brown eyes are dominant over green eyes, but we still don’t know what secondary genes these bunnies might have because Bunny B has brown eyes too.
Next Bunnies A and B have a baby and that baby has green eyes. We haven’t learned anything new at this point either. Fact is:
•We don’t know any secondary traits of the bunnies’ eyes yet. (Because our parents have those eyes)
•There’s a 50/50 chance of which color we do know is dominant over the other. Lets continue…
Aha! The third baby came out with blue eyes. So blue is a secondary trait of……. wait….which one? The mom? The dad? We can’t tell yet, but we DO know that it’s the secondary trait of one of them.
We can breed a lot more babies and hopefully find out the two secondary traits, the mom’s and the dad’s but we would have to breed another pair of totally different bunnies with different eye colors and then interbreed them with our original pair to find out if blue belonged to the original mom or to the original dad. And what if…..both mom and dad have the same secondary color eyes?
Punnett Squares are designed to help with just this kind of puzzle. Google Punnett squares to get an idea of how to use them.
We’ll leave you with another puzzle to ponder…
Let’s say there are 10 eye types. (There are more than that, but let’s just say..) Which color is most dominant and which is least? If green beats out blue over and over, we could put green in the list of types above blue. And if brown beats out green, it goes in the list above green. And if pink get’s overpowered by blue hands down frequently, we could put pink below blue…. and on and on until we have figured out the hierarchy of the colors.
Lets Talk about Elites……
People are confused as to what kind of bunny is capable of generating an elite. First of all, you have to remember that the chance to have an elite at all is very slim. You can raise that chance a bit by feeding the bunnies level 3 food, but it will still be a slim chance.
Candy said recently in chat….
“11:56 Candy Cerveau: In the beginning we used dominant and recessive to refer to both the individual bunnies and the overall list. We realized that was a bit confusing for some folks, so we’ve taken to referring to individual bunnies traits as “primary” and “secondary”. For the purposes of elites, the mother AND father need to have their “primary” traits in fur AND eyes be “recessive” traits based on the overall Ozimals dominant/recessive list.”
The other requirement is that the mother needs to have 3 or less generations left , but the father can have any number of generations left.
If you read my article above, you understand primary and secondary as opposed to Dominant and recessive, but lets give you a more clear example… (This is a FICTIONAL list…only with hard work and a community effort, can we determine the real list)
In our fictional list, dominance is at the top of the list and recessive at the bottom with percentages in between…
1.English Spot Black
4.Holland Lop White
6.English Spot Opal
Number 6 is the MOST recessive in our list, Number 1 is the MOST dominant. Meaning if you breed an ES Opal with an ES Black, chances are ‘most’ of the time you’ll get an ES Black….with me so far?
Ozimals allow elites to be produced by the most recessives…we don’t know how far up the list they went. (And don’t get confused, you need BOTH fur and eyes to be recessive, our example is only showing you how it works with the fur) It could be halfway up, which would mean that 4, 5 or 6 could produce elites. Or it could be 1/3 up the list, which would mean that only 5 and 6 could produce an elite. The point is, the ‘weakest’ or most recessive furs ……up to a certain ‘strength’ of dominance over others…will produce an elite. Lets work together to determine what furs really are the recessives and in what position they should be on the list. Collectively we have the infomation. Individually, it could be years till we find out.
Thank You to Wyrmwood for this information.